Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Catello Romitorio

Castello Romitorio
Everything seems to be connected in some ancient fashion in Italy. We are staying at Poggio di Sopra in Montalchino. This house and the surrounding hillside vineyards are part of Castello Romitorio. Castello Romitorio is owned by artist Sandro Chia, whose work can be found throughout the world including MOMA and the Guggenheim. Daniel, the caretaker and sales manager, insisted that we join him at Castello Romitorio for a tasting and lunch. We of course obliged the invitation. A 20 minute drive through rural countryside including winding gravel roads well marked with all of the standard driving hazards of Italy, we arrived at the estate. A substantial stone and iron gate followed by a half mile long driveway lined by ancient Italian cypress trees. Driving further through vineyards we arrived at the winery with the Castello a bit further in the distance. Greeted by Daniel, we began the tour. Sandro Chia has placed large and small iron castings of some of his sculptures throughout the grounds and winery...very cool. The Castle, built in the `1200's is fully restored on the inside and is now the permanent home of the artist. Views to the north toward Montalcino and Sienna to the south are stunning. To the west is a more rugged, unmanicured landscape which Daniel said looks much like it did at the time of the castle construction. This hill top and building was the site of may brutal battles for territory between Florentine and Sienese armies.
A very special part of the tour was the room where the estate's Vin Santo is made. A small side room off the courtyard contains a metal rack holding a specific white grape (the varietal escapes me). Clusters of grape dangle in a daisy chain from ceiling to floor. These fortunate grapes were just harvested and will hang in this room, concentrating their juices inside the skin, until January. At that point they will be crushed, pressed, and fermented using the “mother” sediment/yeast from a 20 year old barrel just bottled. After fermentation the nectar will be placed in a 20L barrel and aged for 20 years before bottling. This is for the estate family and friends only. No amount of money or begging will get you a taste of this stuff!
Walking back to the winery Daniel was bragging about and bemoaning the winery's latest award. Castello Romitorio's 2004 Brunello Riserva just won the top honor, out of a 1200 bottle field, in a prominent tasting in London. Daniel's phone is now ringing off the hook. Many collectors want to purchase at any price, but the winery guarantees long time customers bottles of all vintages. A small production makes the decision of who gets to buy even more challenging.
The winery facility is very modern with concrete floors and stainless tanks and machinery. Picking, sorting, de-stemming, crushing and fermenting were all happening as we toured the winery. I am in heaven! I learned many new things that would probably just bore the non-vintners reading the blog. As outside, Sandro has placed many statues of Bacchus through the winery, mainly in the barrel room as sentinels for the nectar.
On to the tasting :) A very cool space with many of Sandro's sculptures, paintings, and memorabilia from the estate. One very interesting small black and white photo of William S Burrows firing a pistol on the estate. We were joined at the tasting by Steihl and his 15 year old son Sebasteihl. So pleasant and interesting to converse with people so similar, yet quite different from us. We started with a Vino Rosso di Monetlcino. 100% Sangiovese from this site. By far the best I have had on the trip. Next the Sant' Antimo, a “super Tuscan” blend with Sangiovese and Cabernet. Made primarily for the American taste for heavier Cab styles, this was quite good as well. Then the 2004 Brunello. Wow. Full nosed and full of character, this is what people like us come here for. Unexpectedly, the winery workers arrived for their daily lunch of antipasti, risotto, and veal/pork. We were served the meal as well. Great to eat and taste. We finished the meal with a sampling of their Grappa and an espresso. Nothing like a 4 hour tasting! Thanks again to Daniel and his warm hospitality. How can you not love a place like this:)

2 comments:

  1. What a treat it is to read these descriptive gems. Can I get a Tuscan meal out on the boat next summer? PLEASE.....

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  2. It is also a treat to know someone is reading these "blogisms" from home Steve! You will not have to twist our arms to share wine and the best we can do with the tuscan meal on the boat!

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