La dolce vita di Montalcino

Musings on the sweet life in Montalcino
La dolci vita di Montalcino
The light, color, smell, taste, and disposition of all things Tuscan agree quite well with me. I must assume this to be a universal phenomenon of a visitor to this region, but it seems to resonate deep in my soul. Perhaps my current feeling is amplified by my time spent here 21 years ago. My specific memories of that adventure are blurred by the hand of time, youth and a few substances ingested, but the feeling of this timeless place persists in me.
The first thing I noticed upon entering southern Tuscany was the full, nearly ripe clusters of grape hanging low in the hundreds of vineyards we passed. The last five days have brought a noticeable yellowing of the grape leaves as well as a fall chill. It's been a great pleasure to see the wine industry during its harvest. The few days a year that vintners wait all year for... harvest and crush. Tractors, vans, and Fiats all transporting the labor and the gifts of that labor. Visiting a winery yesterday I caught a nose of a fabulous smell. Our group headed for the tasting room, but I wanted to be inside the cavernous room containing the open wood casks fermenting the grapes. The smell of CO2, fresh grapes, fermented grapes, yeast, aged oak and ancient must is fantastic. My nose tells my brain its time to go to work...the busiest time of the year...yet alas, I am a visitor in this place. I graciously take my place as a spectator and enjoy show.
Montepulciano; Similar in sound to Montalcino and Montecchiello but very different. My prior experience with Montepulciano has been ordering a nice bottle of wine with dinner in the states. Wine is king in this town. Home of the fabled Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Of course there was sampling to be done, but Montepulciano makes you work a little bit for it. A true hill town. We entered with Roberto's fine driving and parked at the base of the old city wall. We thought great views and pictures from here, but this was just the start. An extremely steep walk to the main “corso” or walking/shopping street. When I say steep I mean steep. Slab stone streets with grooves carved in them for traction. In some places a 20% grade. Just when you start to feel tired and in need of a break, a 75 year old kyphotic, cankled, high heeled Italian woman walks past. Peer pressure at its best! We climbed and climbed and climbed. One more great view to the west of the Tuscan countryside. While photographing, the church bell began ringing wildly. Soon twenty or so nuns and one priest exited. One of the nuns was wearing a bridal veil. We think she just married Jesus! Very special moment...then climbing some more. At the top piazza is a scenic old church (hard to believe) and a very scenic wine bar or “enoteca”. This will surprise many, but we sampled vino rossa di Montalcino and Brunello while the sun set over the Tuscan countryside. The perfect end to another perfect day.